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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 





014 496 941 8 



.^■' 







BY JAMES T. VOCELLE. 



'Oh, would you like a calm retreal 
where health and joys perpetual 
meet. 

And birds with man^ a song 
Makt music in each brush arid 
brake — 

Oh, Would you of such bliss par- 
take? 

Then come, come at once along 
To Beautiful St. Marys by the Sea. ' ' 



Price Twenty- Fine Cents 




Copyright, 1913, 

by 

James Thomas Vocelle, 



©aA348628 



Reminiscences of Old St. Marys. 

^^ay down in the extreme southeastern corner of 
the State of Georgia, near where the waves of the 
majestic Atlantic break loudly upon the shore, is situated 
the historic little city of St. Marys. 

Nature in one of her kindest moods bestowed upon the 
site of this historic town her choicest gifts, leaving but little 
for man to do to promote health, comfort, conveniences or 
aesthetic enjoyment. Wa>', fire, storms and pestilence have 
paid direful visitations, but kind Nature ever promptly cov- 
ers up the sears v/ith flower and tree and shrub and vine, 
and a lovlier, more restful scene never delighted the eye of 
man. Broad avenues, carpeted with grass and shaded with 
giant live-oak and sycamore trees, stretching from the river's 
bank to the primeval forests of pine and palmetto, and in- 
tersected at right angles by streets that paralel the river, 
and a bold creek with a druidical grove of venerable oak- 
such are the physical features of the town. 

V/hen the first white man landed upon her sacred soil is 
unknown but it is believed by some to be the very spot on 
which John Ribault, who was sent over by Admiral Coligny 
of France, to explore Florida, landed. On the first of May 
1562 he came up a river which he called May river, and it is 
more than probable that this is the same river that we call 
the St. Marys and which the Indians called Thathothatho- 
gupka. 

Prior to 1765 Camden County was not included in Geor- 
gia; Oglethorpe's grant only extended to the Altamaha river. 
On Nov. 10, 1753, Gov. James Wright of Georgia, with the 
governors of Virginia, North and South Carolina, met at 
Augusta. A treaty was made with the Indians and about 
the same time Great Britain and France made a treaty with 
Spain that Florida should be given over to the British. So 



Georgia's limits were extended to the St. Marys river on the 
south. 

In 1765 the parishes of St. Mary and St. Thomas were 
laid out. In 1777 these two parishes were named Camden 
county, after the Earl of Camden, a British statesman. 

In the year 1788 the city of St. Marys was laid out by 
James Findlay, county surveyor of Camden county, and to 
this wise man is largely due the wonderful beauty for which 
St. Marys is justly famed. 

The first English settlers of St. Marys were: Henry Os- 
borne, Thos. Norris, Jacob ¥/eed, John Alexander, Lankley 
Bryant, Richard Cole, Jonathan Conyers, Wm. Ready, Si- 
mon Dillingham, Isaac Wheelar, Wm. Norris, James Sea- 
grove, Lodvv'ick Ashley, James Findley, Robert Seagrove 
and a Mr. Gallop. The beautiful avenues of St. Marys are 
named for these men, who did so much for the early history 
of the town. 

St. Marys was chartered as a town in 1792, during the 
administration of Governor Edward Telfair. In 1857 it v/as 
chartered as a city. 

The old brick building now used for the Catholic church 
was formerly the Bank of St. Marys. This bank was incor- 
porated, by the legislature of Georgia, in 1826 and was the 
twenty-third to be chartered in the State. The capital stock 
of the Bank was $250,000 and the cashier received a salary 
of $2,500 per annum. The first cashier of the Bank was Mr. 
Abram Bessent, he having resigned, the directors elected a 
Mr. Winter cashier. One morning they awoke to find that 
the night before Mr. Winter liad taken French leave and had 
carried with him the greater part of the bank's money. As 
telegraphs and railroads were few in those days, Mr. Winter 
was never again heard of. St. Marys was without a banking 
establishment until the growing needs of the town necessi- 
tated the forming of one in 1911. 

St. Marys has many old and historic buildings, among 
them is the Presbyterian church, 113 years old, the oldest 
building now standing and the oldest church in Georgia with 
the possible exception of Old Midway in Liberty county. 



It is said that when Florida belonged to Spain that St. 
Marys was a great smuggling port and the officers were keep- 
ing such a sharp lookout that the smugglers could not land 
their gin, rum and cigars. So one dark night they stole the 
minister's horse from the stable, carried it to this old church 
and hoisted into the belfry, where next morning from its 
lofty perch its neighing attracted the attention of the entire 
population of the town. Of course the unsuspecting cus- 
toms officers, as well as the other inhabitants, spent the day 
wondering at the strange sight of a horse in the church 
steeple and speculating as to who were the mischievous cul- 
prits that put him there. And so while the parley was go- 
ing on and plans were in operation to get him down the 
smugglers made good their wares and were off to sea with 
the ebb tide. 

Another old and historic building is Orange Hall, now 
owned by Judge J. L. Sweat, of Waycross. This building, 
which resembles an old colonial mansion such as a well-to-do 
southern planter lived in before the Civil War, is built en- 
tirely of white pine and situated as it is in the heart of St. 
Marys, it presents an imposing sight indeed. 

A few miles from St. Marys, hidden almost from view, 
lying far back in the forest, may be seen the ruins of an old 
building. This building is made entirely of tabby and close- 
ly resembles the old monasteries built on the St. Johns river, 
Florida. It is more than probable that it was built for such 
a puroose. This old building has been standing for ages, 
when it was first built is not known, its past history is buried 
in obscure darkness and is nevei Hkely to be brought to light 
but it stands to remind us that long before our ancestors 
came to America that the Spanish were here trying to con- 
vert the Indians. 

Three miles from St. Marys, though still within the cor- 
porate limits, Sweetwater Branch crosses the public road. 
The waters of this little stream are clear and pleasant to the 
taste, whence its name. In the olden times while the red 
men still roamed the forest in that vicinity, it is told that one 
day Withlacooche, an aged chieftain, was seated beside the 



road vainly trying to extract a thorn from his foot. Pretty 
Mary Jones, an amiable white ^irl and a belle in her class, 
coming along and seeing the old warrior's predicament, vol- 
unteered her assistance and quickly had the foot relieved of 
its invader. Full of gratitude, the old Indian told her he 
would surely help her if she ever got into trouble. Shortly 
after this the Smashing Nancy, a United States recruiting 
vessel, appeared in the harbor and began to soHcitmen to en- 
list in the navy. Among the number that enlisted was Ben 
Johnson to whom Mary Jones was betrothed. When poor 
Mary heard of it her heart was broken. She felt if her lover 
went away on a long cruise he would never return. Half 
distracted, she was walking along the same road loudly weep- 
ing and bewailing her fate, when she was espied by old 
Withlacooche, who quickly approached her and in sympathe- 
tic tones inquired what her trouble was. Between violent 
sobs the poor girl stated her case. "You were good to With- 
lacooche, " said the old chief, with feeling, "now Withlacooche 
will be good to you," and he gathered a handful of red ber- 
ries and green leaves and scattered them on the water of 
Sweetwater Branch. "INow see," he resumed, "Withla- 
cooche has cast a spell on these waters and whosoever shall 
drink of them will surely return. Bring your lover here and 
make him drink." Inspired with new hope, Mary brought 
Ben to the stream and he drank. He went away on the 
cruise, but the spell brought him back, and he and faithful 
Mary were happily wedded. 

During the war of 1812 St. Marys was invaded by the 
British. They landed at Point Peter Neck, where a fort had 
been established by the government, but the garrison con- 
sisted of only about 100 men and they were powerless a- 
gainst so many British. The British defeated them and then 
marched on to St. Marys. Upon arriving here they pillaged 
and burnt the place. The collector of customs. Major Clark, 
had in his possession a hundred thousand dollars of govern- 
ment money, but hearing of the approach of the British, he 
managed to secrete the money, and though boldly demanded 
to deliver it, he as bravely refused. This enraged the Bri t- 



ish and because he eluded their search for this treasure, they 
ascended the St. Marys river for the purpose of burning his 
valuable mill located near the spot where Folkston, Charlton 
county, Georgia, now stands. Twenty-three barges piled 
with British soldiers ascended the river with this terrible 
purpose in view. But while ascending, they were attacked 
by a party of twenty-eight men commanded by Captain Wil- 
liam Cone. As soon as they were attacked they fired their 
cannon, but the palmetto on both sides of the nver served as 
a screen for Cone's men so that the shot proved harmless. 
Cone's men took advantage of every turn in the river to fire 
on them and every shot brought down a man. The British 




PTIESBYTERIAN CHURCH, BUILT IN 1800. 



miracle, 
country 



fmding themselves exposed to so deadly a fire returned to St. 
Marys and when they arrived they reported 180 men killed 
and as many wounded. That 28 men could defeat twenty- 
three barges full of British soldiers seems almost a 
but Cone's men were fighting for life, liberty and 
and nothing daunted them. 

History says that this was one of the most remarkable 
feats ever recorded in the annals of war. 

Major Archibald Clark, owner of the mills, was born in 
Savannah August, 1782, where he received his primary edu- 
cation. He was then sent to the famous law school atLitc^h- 
iield. Conn., where he met and fell in love with the beautiful 



and accomplished Miss Rhoda Wadsworth, daughter of Capt. 
Elija Wadsworth, of the Continental Army. He was descend- 
ed from Capt. Joseph Wadsworth, who secreted the charter 
of Connecticut in the famous oak tree on the night of October 
31, 1687. All students of history are familiar with this dra- 
matic epoisode. Major Clark returned to Savannah and re- 
ceived his degree of barrister-at-law and then hurried back 
to Connecticut to claim his bride. 

He removed to St. Marys in 1802 and purchased the un- 
finished house, which stood opposite Orange Hall, (not then 
in existence), and settled down for Hfe. 

It was prophesied at that time that St. Marys would be 
a very large city. It contained nearly 1,000 inhabitants, dis- 
tinguished for their industry and hospitality, just as its pres- 
ent inhabitants are, and it was the boast of the people that 
in no place south of Charleston could merchandise and pro- 
duce be bought so cheap. Smoked and jerked meat was fur- 
nished in abundance from Ware, Appling, Lowndes and 
Irwin counties at 3c a pound and bacon at 6c. 

A railroad was projected to Columbus. It was incorpo- 
rated by the legislature of the state in 1836 and among the in- 
corporators were the most prominent citizens of St. Marys 
and Camden county. If it had been built who knows but 
what St. Marys would have rivaled Savannah and Charles- 
ton? But cruel are the decrees of fate. Savannah i cached 
out her arms and built a railroad through Ware and the other 
counties and cut off St. Marys' supplies. 

St. Marys was an important port of entry in those days 
and it was in the administration of the illustrious Thomas 
Jefferson, 1807, that Major Clark was appomted collector of 
the port. At that time the salary, perqusites, &c., amount- 
ed to about $7,000 a year. With his law practice and other 
income this briUiant young lawyer was anchored for life. He 
served the city as mayor a number of years and served as 
collector from the time of his appointment until his death 
which occured a few months before the inauguration of 
President Taylor. He now lies peacefully sleeping in our 
ancient city of the dead where there is naught to disturb 
his repose. Peace to his ashes and may the rememberance 



of his courage and bravery ever live as an immortal monu- 
ment to one of St. Marys' most distinguished citizens and 
patriotic sons. 

St. Marys is indeed beautiful but what adds more to its 
beauty than anything else is its cemetery. Situated as it is 
at the edge of town it owes its charm to the ancient and ven- 
erable live oak trees that shade it. Majestic and solemn, 
draped and festooned with long gray moss, these giants of 
the forest stretch a canopy of perennial green over the city 
of the dead. Asleep in this beautiful and secluded spot are 
many heroes of the Confederacy, soldiers of the Revolution 
and beloved citizens of St. Marys. The oldest stone in the 
cemetery is that of Richard Gascoigne, who died in 1801. 
The grave of one old Revolutionary "soldier bears the follow- 
ing inscription, the syntax of which is somewhat loose. 

"Sacred to the memory of John Brown, who was born at 
South Kingston, R. I., 1765, and died at St. Marys, Ga,. 1820, 
This stone is erected to an honest man, a soldier of the 
Revolution in his youth and in his old age an humble chris- 
tain." 

A few years ago the body of Capt. John Williams was re- 
moved from this cemetery to Arlington, the national ceme- 
tery, after resting here for 92 years. The bones were per- 
fect, showing no signs of decay. The following inscription 
was upon the monument: "Here lies the remains of John 
Williams, esquire, late a captain of the corps of the United 
States Marine, was born in Stafford county, Virginia, the 
24th of August. 1765, and died on the 29th of September, 
1812, at Camp New Hope in East Florida." 

When the Civil War came on, the citizens of St. Marys 
left the place and went farther up the river, most of them 
going to Traders Hill, about 100 miles up. In 1863, St. Marys 
was bombarded by the gunboat John Adams. A blockade 
had been formed at Fernandina and this gunboat was mak- 
ing the ascent of the river to seize some cotton above St. 
Marys and was fired on by a citizen of the town, who killed 
the pilot on the gunboat. This so incensed the commander 
that he immediately retahated by turning his guns on St. 
Marys and practically destroyed the place. A few buildings 



escaped; Orange Hall, the Methodist church, the Presbyteri- 
an church and a few others. The Catholic church, the 
Episcopal church and the Camden County Academy were 
among the buildings destroyed. 

When, in 1865, the citizens returned from their exodus 
they found ruin and devastation every where visible, but with 
unconquerable resolve they set to work to rebuild the home 
so dear to their hearts and in a few months they had the 
town partly rebuilt. 

A memorable incident in the history of St. Marys was 
the visit here in 1875 of Mr. Nathaniel Bishop, who came in 
his little paper canoe. "The Maria Theresa." Mr. Bishop, 
who was an extensive traveller, came all the way from Que- 
bec, in Canada, to the Gulf of Mexico in this canoe. 

In a book, which he has written, entitled "The Voyage 
of the Paper Canoe," he has the following to say of St. 
Marys: 

' 'At dusk the town of St. Marys in its wealth of foliage 
opened to my view from across the lowlands, and soon after 
the paper canoe was carefully stored in a building belonging 
to one of its hospitable citizens." 

"One evening, while enjoying the hospitality of Mr. Si- 
las Fordham at his beautiful winter residence. Orange Hall, 
a note signed by the Hon. J. M. Arnow, mayor of the city, 
was handed me. Mr. Arnow, in the name of the city gov- 
ernment, invited my presence at the Spencer House. Upon 
arriving there a surprise awaited me; the citizens of the place 
had gathered to welcome the paper canoe and its owner and 
to express the kindly feeling they as southern citizens held 
toward their northern friends. ' ' 

This incident is still fresh in the memory of the old citi- 
zens of the place. The mayor, Mr. Arnow, was the uncle of 
our esteemed fellow townsmen Messrs. I. F. and C. S. Arnow. 

Mr. Bishop says that he left St. Marys with a strange 
longing to return to its interesting environs and study here 
the climatology of southern Georgia. 

Prior to the Civil War the county seat of Camden was 
Jefferson Town, an important commercial center inthe early 
days. But soon after the war this place became too much 



out of the way and the court house and other buildings were 
built at St. Marys. The county seat has remained here ever 
since. 

Not far from St. Marys is Cumberland Island, the largest 
island on the south Atlantic coast. Upon this island is Dun- 
geness, the winter home of Mrs. Lucy Carnagie, the widow 
of Thomas M. Carnagie, a brother of Andrew, the great phil- 
anthropist. This island of Cumberland was so named after 
the Duke of Cumberland by an Indian chief, Tonawanda. 
When Tonawanda went to London with Oglethorpe the Duke 
gave him a gold watch to tell how the time went, and on his 
return he named this beautiful island Cumberland in honor 
of the Duke. 

Oglethorpe was so pleased with this act of the old Indian's 
good will that he is said to have erected on the southern end 
of the island a hunting lodge which he called Dungeness. 
This place was given by the state to General Nathaniel Green, 
in recognition of his great military services to the country. 
General Green never lived there himself, but after his death 
the place was occupied by his widow, Mrs. Miller, and her 
daughter Mrs. Shaw. 

At the extreme southern end of the island in a little 
private burial ground was buried the tried and trusted friend 
of Washington, Major General Henry Lee, better known as 
''Light Horse Harry Lee," the father of General Robert E. 
Lee. At the time of his death General Lee was visiting Mrs. 
Shaw, and the old soldier, who was in feeble health, breath- 
ed his last on March 25, 1818, and with military honors, was 
laid to rest beneath the sod of Georgia. 

During a recent session of the Virginia legislature a bill 
was passed appropriating the sum of $500 to defray the ex- 
penses of removing the remains of General Lee from Dun- 
geness to Lexington, and on May 30, 1913, his body was car- 
ried to Virginia by the committee appointed for that purpose. 
So after resting for over 95 years beneath the soil of Georgia 
all that is mortal of Major General Henry Lee has been con- 
veyed to its final resting place, the vault of the Lee family 
in the Lee chapel at Washington and Lee University. 

In the vernal months of 1870 the grave of his father was 



]»19 



visited by General Robert E. Lee. He passed through St. 
Marys en route to Dungeness and expressed ' his delight in 
seeing the place. It was the last visit of the old hero, he 
was soon to join his father in the great beyond. Six months 
after his visit the great man fell asleep at Lexmgton, be- 
queathing to his fellow men and to the whole world the 
matchless example and the heroic name of Robert E. Lee. 

Camden county has had many noted residents, among 
them were General John Floyd, an officer of the State Militia 
who distinguished himself in the v/ar of 1812. His son, 
General Charles L. Floyd, Major General Duncan L. Chnch, 
who v/as a soldier of great distinction, a member of Congress 
and a candidate lor Governor on the Whigg ticket. Andrew 
J. Miller, an eminent Georgian, was born at Point Peter near 
St. Marys. Lieutenant General Wm. T. Hardee, a noted 
Confederate officer, was also a native of Camden. From the 
famous Floyd family is also descended Hon. William Gibbs 
McAdoo, Secretary of the Treasury of the United States and 
builder of the famous Hudson tunnels. 

Perhaps it may seem strange to the reader that a town 
so redolent with historical associations as St. Marys is and 
situated in such a commanding location should have remain- 
ed untouched by the business of the outside world so long, 
but St. Marys is rapidly coming to her own, a new day is 
breaking, a brighter sky than ever j^et made luminous this 
beautiful and secluded spot is dawning upon her. Her eyes 
are set toward the future and "Beautiful St. Marys by the 
Sea," surrounded by its ancient relics of the past, standing 
in a world of its own, as it were, with its interesting environ- 
ments awaits with outstretched arms the dawn of the new 
day. May her hopes be realized and may He who rules over 
the welfare of all the world, send down upon the most beauti- 
ful spot on Georgia's map his choicest blessings! 



END. 



